Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Thanksgiving weekend in Tegucigalpa, the capital of Honduras

Last week our school celebrated Thanksgiving by having the kids put on yet another presentation complete with songs and dancing. Why they celebrate an American holiday in Honduras I'll never understand, and what makes it even more ironic is that none of the teachers and students know why either, actually none of them even know what Thanksgiving actually is or what it celebrates. Nonetheless, Sara and I joined our classes together to sing a Thanksgiving song put to the tune of "Twinkle, Twinkle, Little Star" and taught our kids hand gestures to go along with it. Our kids made turkey feathers to wear on their heads, even though most of them thought they were Indian feathers. The picture above shows our kids practicing.On Thursday Sara and I decided to change our plans to go to one of the Bay Islands (Roatan), and instead visit Honduras' capital city, Tegucigalpa. The rainy weather would have made it impossible to enjoy the beaches that Roatan is most known for, and we decided going more inland would help us escape the rain for a few days. After taking the 6 hour bus from Tela to Tegucigalpa, I stepped off the bus to find myself a little bit disoriented. Tegucigalpa (or "Tegus" as they call it) is a huge city, with so many more buildings, streets, and alleys, cars, and just about everything than Tela, all crammed together. It was a huge change of atmosphere from the more spread out and rural aspects of Tela. We took a taxi from the bus station, which was in a Comayaguela, a nearby neighborhood (the two pictures above), to the center of town where we were planning to find a hotel. After some walking around and exploring, we found a perfect hotel. It was called the Hotel Iberia, and it was located right in front of a beautiful church called the Igelsia de Delores. You can see it in the background of the picture above, the inside of the church was even more beautiful than the outside. It is definately my favorite chuch I've seen since being here, and I even got to attend a Mass on Sunday (mom, I know you would be happy about that!:). The hotel was in the center of all the museums, parks, shops, and other conveniences, plus they had HOT WATER (we have to take ice cold showers at home), towels, and the people there were very friendly and helpful! Even though the hot water was only from 6am-10am, it was a nice step up form the showers at home. All this for only 110 lempira (about $5) each per night for a private room and bathroom! In the picture above you can see our hotel (the yellow building) and the church right behind it. After settling in a bit at the hotel, we headed out to try to find a place to have our Thanksgiving dinner. Since Tegus is the capital, as well as the largest city in Honduras, there are tons of American restaurants and fast food places (and an extreme amount of Dunkin Donuts for some reason).

The closest American fast food place to Tela is an hour away, and though I love that aspect of Tela, it is nice to see a familiar place or restaurant every once and a while. So once we saw a Pizza Hut we decided to have our Thanksgiving dinner there. Why not celebrate an American holiday away from home and family, in an American restaurant in Honduras?? We enjoyed a cheese pizza and salad bar, yum, yum...it's been a while since I've had anything American in my stomach! It was an extra treat because I've been craving salad for so long, and we don't have any of that in Tela, or any salad that I would trust eating for that matter!(and yes of course I had to include a picture of the pizza!:))I know it's probably not anything special to you, but I was pretty excited about it! After dinner we found ourselves in one of the only open bars in the area where we had a few drinks and had the lovely opportunity to sample some of Honduras' finest vocalists have a go at karaoke (sense the sarcasm in my tone?!).


On Friday we headed out with our trusty Lonely Planet guidebook to do a walking tour of the city. Thank goodness Sara is way better with directions than I could ever be, and she was able to make some sense of the confusing maps in the book. We were eventually able to find our way through many museums and parks. The walk started in central park, where there is a large cathedral (the picture above). Then we continued to the National Art Gallery (the smaller picture above), where they had everything from old religious artifacts and paintings to modern art exhibits displaying a TV/fish aquarium, and a ceramic foot surrounded by peanut butter and peanut shells!

After this museum, we headed to the Museum of the National Identity. This was a much larger museum that had extensive exhibits on Honduran History, displaying many artifacts, pictures, maps, and even showing videos. Too bad everything was in Spanish and I couldn't catch most of it! No cameras were allowed inside, so we couldn't take any pictures of the cool exhibits. We saw an amazing black and white photography exhibit that had various photos of Tenochtitlan, Mexico taken by Francisco Mata Rosas. This was my favorite exhibit, it even had a video showing that helped to link all the different photographs together in a sort of story, it was amazing! Sara and I spent a good amount of time watching, and probably could have stayed there all day! To see some of his work or even watch the video, click on this link:
http://www.zonezero.com/exposiciones/fotografos/matafco/index.html

After seeing these museums, we started we decided to look for La Leona Park, to get there we had to walk up a winding, narrow road. We passed many different kinds of houses on the way. It was weird to see really nice houses, brightly painted, complete with beautiful gardens full of flowers overlooking the city, right beside dilapidated buildings, some barely having windows with paint cracking everywhere (some weren't even buildings, but rather shacks) as the smaller pictures show.

Finally, at the very top of the winding road, there the park stood, overlooking the entire city of Tegus below, the view was gorgeous (that's the picture below). The park itself was small, but really cute. It seemed like it was nicely kept up, there were pretty plants and flowers, many park benches looking out towards the view, a small fountain, and even basketball courts, where kids were playing a game. Sara took a video of the view from the park, you can click on this link to see it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_kR_X8OJqQ

After leaving the park we stumbled across a military museum where we were given a tour by a very friendly, borderline creepy older man, who was a retired officer. He was really nice and showed us a lot of old guns and various weapons, uniforms, pictures, and medals. But the creepy factor came in when he continuously commented on Sara's painted toenails, and how he wanted to lick them! At first we weren't really sure what was going on, and it was so completely random, that the first few times he said it, I just nervously laughed it off, thinking that I must have heard him wrong! Who in their right mind would say that?! But sure enough after the fourth and fifth time, Sara and I took it as our definate cue to leave. After that, we walked a little bit away from downtown, and into a neighborhood called Colonia Palmira. This was a very cute area with many little gourmet cafes and restaurants, most were very nice, but pricey. We finally ended up at a place called Gourmet Grill. After all the walking, we decided we just needed to eat some good food soon. This was definitely the first meal of its kind that I've ever eaten in Honduras. When we eat out, most meals consist of tortillas, beans, plantains, and not much else. It was the first time in four months that I've seen a menu that served things like apple pie a la mode and hummus! Needless to say, I HAD to try both these things! I had the apple pie and a hummus and eggplant sandwich, complete with a alfalfa sprouts, a pickle, and fries!! Sounds silly, but in a world of nothing but top ramen, eggs, toast, tuna and PB & J sandwiches, to eat something so different, was heaven!! The bill was more expensive than we were used to spending (about $7 each instead of the usual $2), but it was worth it because the food was delicious!!!
Later that night we ate dinner and had some drinks at a hostel/bar/restaurant called The Tobacco Inn where we met two other really nice travelers, a guy from Germany, and his friend, a girl from Canada. They had been traveling around Central America for a while, and had met during their traveling. They gave us a few tips and info. on places they've been, and places they recommended that we try to visit while living here. It's always nice to meet and talk to other young people traveling, and to share funny and amazing stories and experiences. Plus, it's always nice to get insight on different places from people that have just visited these places, it helps you try to figure out what you want/ don't want to do and places that might/might not interest you.
On Saturday we found a cute little little stand/restaurant to eat breakfast at. We met the nicest older couple that worked and owned the stand, and I ate a delicious typical Honduran breakfast, beans, plantains, fresh tortillas, eggs, avocado, and a sort of "sour cream" (basically the same kind of food you find EVERYWHERE here, and food we eat every day, but it was still good!) Plus, the friendly service made it all the better. I wanted to do a little Christmas shopping so we headed to a small town about 30 minutes outside of Tegucigalpa called the "Valle de Angeles" (Valley of Angels). It's a cute little historic Spanish mining town that has cobblestone streets, and many little artisan shops, and restaurants. It had a small church, and for some reason an extremely bright blue fountain in the center of town( the picture below is the fountain, with the church behind it). It reminded me a lot of the town of Copan Ruinas, which I wrote about in my last blog. After leaving the Valley of Angels, we went to find another park called El Picacho which had a zoo, which we TRIED to visit. Near the entrance to the zoo, we stopped to admire yet another amazing view of the city below: After paying for a taxi and for an entrance fee to the park, we were extremely sad to find out that the zoo (located inside the park) had already closed for the day! No matter how much we begged, they wouldn't let us in. The worst part was that the guy at the front gate knew we were coming to see the zoo, and he took our money for the entrance fee anyways, without even bothering to tell us the zoo had already closed for the day! And even after we complained, that he should have told us, and that he should give us a refund, he insisted that it wasn't his problem and that he couldn't give us our money back! What a jerk! So sadly defeated, Sara and I paid for another cab ride back to the hotel. There's a small picture of the entrance to the zoo, sadly the only part we got to see! Later that night Sara and I went to see our first movie in Honduras, at an actual movie theatre! The tickets were only 30 lemps ($1.50) and there were only three movies playing (all really old), but it was a nice treat to actually sit in a dark theatre and watch a movie on the big screen, instead of crouching over our laptops, which is how we usually watch movies! We were two out of the four people sitting in the theatre, I don't know how the place makes any money! We watched Saw IV, or as the title here said "El Juego de Miedo" which means the game of fear. Luckily the movie was in English, with Spanish subtitles.

The next morning, Sunday, after taking the last of our nice hot showers, we packed up to go back home to Tela. After searching everywhere for a place to eat breakfast (apparently nothing is open on Sunday mornings) we had to settle on eating breakfast at Wendy's, it's really wierd eating fastfood after not having any for so long! Then it was off to the bus station to catch another bus to take back home. Luckily, this bus driver drove a little faster, and we only made one stop, so we were able to get back to Tela in only 5 hours, instead of 6. As soon as I got back to Tela I was able to begin the countdown until Christmas, and when I get to go back home for 2 weeks.....December 21 here I come! I hope everyone had a Happy Thanksgiving!

Monday, November 19, 2007

Copan Ruinas and My First Futbol(Soccer) Game...

This past weekend Sara and I were lucky enough to be invited to join Graciella (the founder of our school), Vanessa (her daughter), a few other teachers from the school, and about 30 other avid "futbol" fans on a trip to Copan Ruinas to watch their prized team (Olimpia) play. The trip took about 5 hours one way on a direct bus that they rented for the weekend. The great thing was that Sara and I only had to worry about paying for the hotel and food. The bus was absolutely free, it would've cost us about 600 lempira ($30) to take a bus on our own. Another bonus was that since they rented the bus just for our group we were able to stretch out and lay down, which is a great luxury because usually on public buses in Honduras, they cram 3 adults into a single seat,and on top of that the aisles are always completely packed with people standing! On Saturday we arrived in the town of Copan Ruinas, which is famous for its Mayan ruins. It's in the western part of Honduras, near the border of Guatemala. The town itself was incredible. They have cobblestone streets, and cute buildings, restaurants, and shops lined all the streets. The historical town is protected by the government. Big public buses (old American school buses), and new construction of any modern buildings is not permitted to help preserve the historical environment of the town. Instead of buses, and taxis, they use tiny red cars to get around, even the police drove around in these tiny cars (the blue one on the left). The only downside was that it is a big tourist area, all the stores have lempira converted into dollars on all the price tags, and most restaurants had English/Spanish menus, which meant that everything was a little more expensive than Sara and I were used to in Tela and other parts of Honduras.











On Sunday, after eating breakfast, we headed over to see the Mayan ruins with the rest of the group. Sara and I were very excited, especially since we didn't think we were going to have time to stop by because we had thought the soccer game would be earlier. The entrance to the park cost 300 lempira ($15)! This was way over our budget, but luckily, Graciella was nice enough to pay for half of Sara's ticket, and they were able to sneak me in as a native Honduran, so I got in for the local price 80 lempira ($4). I was told just to smile, and not open my mouth (as soon as anyone heard my accent I would clearly give it away), and just stick close by to Vanessa, and hold her son's (Anthony) hand. So I guess I pass as a native....just need to REALLY work on my Spanish!! Unfortunately, Sara wasn't as lucky, but we ended up splitting the cost of both our tickets...still better than paying full price! We'll take what we can get! The small picture on the top right shows a huge set of stairs. The entire story of the Mayans and their history is inscribed on the face of each brick that makes up every step.
The ruins were really amazing to see. It's crazy to think of how much more amazing everything would have looked like way back then! The picture of me below shows the stadium where the Mayans played soccer. The losing team would be killed as a sacrifice to the gods. The other, smaller picture on the left shows the stone ball that they used to play with. After visiting the ruins, we headed to the another town called Santa Rosa to watch the "futbol" game. They call it this, but it's really what we know as soccer. There were so many people at the stadium! The inside of the stadium was nothing like I've ever seen! All the bleachers and stands were basically slabs of wood (that were sagging in the middle from all the weight) laid across metal with hundreds of people standing, crammed, into every inch available. There of course were no railings, so people could have, and probably did, fall off all the time!
The fans were wild and crazy, as you can imagine from any sporting event, but it was still shocking to see police dressed in full riot gear, complete with helmets, rifles, and plastic shields. At the beginning of the game some rowdy fans opened up a huge fire extinguisher and sprayed it all over the screaming fans. The place was packed, there were people everywhere, cheering, singing, and chanting various songs and cheers for their team! Another surprising thing was that they didn't have any bathrooms. Well, that's not entirely true, they did have a dark concrete room with very small windows under the bleachers, that I'm pretty sure men were going into to pee. Other men that weren't so considerate were lined up along the walls peeing like it was completely normal, I guess it was for them! And as for women, there wasn't even a disgusting little concrete room for us to try to go in, which explains why most people that come to the soccer games are men! After the first half of the game, Sara, Vanessa, and I were ready to leave, and wait for the others at the bus. I am glad I went, just to see what it would be like, and to experience an official Honduran "futbol" game, but to put it in a nice way....let's just say I definitely won't be dying to go to any more games while I'm here!
Sara and I have a few days off for Thanksgiving. Can you believe they celebrate that here?! Funny thing is, none of the teachers or kids even know what the holiday is about, or why they celebrate it! Again, very typical of the schools here, any excuse to have a party, present another song or dance, and miss a few days of work and school! We were planning to take a trip to Roatan, one of the bay islands, but because it's been raining pretty much nonstop in Tela, Roatan has been the same. The gorgeous white sand beaches and blue water that Roatan is known for will be pretty much useless in the all the downpour of rain, so we might take a trip to visit Tegucigalpa, the capital of Honduras instead(which is more inland and hopefully has less wet weather). I'll let you know how it all goes on the next blog. Happy Thanksgiving everyone!! Eat tons of food for me and enjoy the holiday! I'll see you all one in about a month when I get to come home for Christmas!!! :)

Wednesday, November 7, 2007

Tons of water everywhere...except from the faucet!

We've been told that October through December was supposed to be the rainy season, and so far they've been right! It has been raining pretty consistently for the past few weeks. After living here during August and September, I was already getting used to the hot and humid weather (being able to go to the beach every day was a plus too). Click on this link to see a short video Sara took of how the weather and beaches in Tela used to be:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G9q6NYmb_3Q
I would've never thought that the socks and sweaters I packed in my suitcase could have ever come in handy! The change in weather has it's advantages and disadvantages though... It's definitely nice to be able to cuddle up and actually use the blankets that I brought, and it's nice not to feel like I have to take a cold shower every 10 minutes just to cool off from the unbearable humidity. But with the rain comes not being able to do laundry, because drying clothes on the clothesline is pretty much impossible, not to mention the fact that the water is shut off more often so even if I wanted to do laundry, I couldn't! Plus, the electricity also gets shut off more frequently. Also, Sara and I are held captive in our house because going anywhere would involve us getting COMPLETELY soaked on our bikes. School was actually cancelled for the kids today because of the rain.
We were trapped in our house this past weekend for exactly that reason, the rain would let up for only 15-20 minutes, then out of nowhere it would start raining again, so hard that it sounded like hail hitting our roof. We were both really getting cabin fever, I mean, how long would anyone last spending day after day sitting in your bed, reading, watching movies, eating, and checking the faucet to see if the water's turned back on every 10 minutes?! Believe it or not, I'm already on my 12th book since I've been here!
The picture on the right shows my towels that have now been hanging outside for practically two weeks because they won't dry! Not to mention they were a complete and utter pain to hand wash in the first place! I can't decide if I should try to hang them up inside the house, where it would probably take forever to dry, and make the house smell like mildew, or if I should just leave them outside for now and rewash them (which I couldn't even do until recently because the water just got turned back on!). Either way I've finally come to grips with the fact that no matter where the towels finally get dry, they will smell like mildew because of all the rain!
The water usually gets shut off a few times a week in the afternoon (even without the rain), but last week it was shut off COMPLETELY from Thursday afternoon until Tuesday (yesterday) night! We got so desperate for water that Sara had to put out buckets and bowls outside to collect the rainwater so we could at least try to wash dishes and take showers!But the rainwater was so cold, that in order for us to take showers we had to so through an entire process....
1) Very carefully pick up and drag our pretty large "shower bucket" from the front of the house to our bathroom, while trying not to spill too much water.

2)Waiting about 30-40 min for a pot of rainwater to boil on the stove.

3) Carefully carry the pot of water (which conveniently has no handles) into the bathroom and pour it into the large "shower bucket." It would be great if this at least made warm water, but because the rainwater is so cold, it only makes it slightly lukewarm.

4) Use a pitcher to pour the water on our bodies, while rushing the entire time because every second spent in the shower means FREEZING our butts off!

Washing the dishes using a pitcher of rainwater was pretty difficult too, no matter what I did, I couldn't convince myself they were ever getting clean! Flushing the toilet was another huge problem. We could only flush the toilet when absolutely necessary, and even then, we had to walk in and out of the house 4-5 times getting rainwater from outside, using a pitcher, until the tank in the back of the toilet filled up enough for us to be able to actually flush! Needless to say, running water is definately at the top my list of things I miss about living in the US!

Oh well! I guess I shouldn't be complaining too much, it's always either too hot or too cold here for me! :)
The picture below shows boys playing on the soccer field right next door to our house. The rain and mud never seems to phase them. They even run around completely barefoot kicking around and splashing tons of mud as they play. They were all completely brown, covered in mud, when Sara took this photo.
The other picture below shows the makeshift pathway Sara made in the front of our house using rocks. It's the only way we can get in and out of the house without getting our feet completely soaked in the gross, muddy water. We have to do a pretty impressive balancing act on the rocks every day while we try to lock the gate behind us. This ordeal usually takes a good 5 minutes because: it's raining, the lock is so rusted from the rain that it never closes the first 10 times you try, and we're doing this while standing on unsteady rocks and trying not to fall into the mud, all the while holding our bags for work, and an umbrella!