Monday, April 14, 2008

Semana Santa- Part Three (Our trip to Rio Dulce)

FRIDAY, MARCH 21:

After taking the lancha from our hotel to Pana, we got on our own private shuttle to take us to Rio Dulce at about 7:30 am. The trip was going to be about 7 hours, so it was a good thing each of us got our own row in the van so we could put our legs up and stretch out. The driver stopped to pick up his wife and small daughter to ride along along with us. He was going to have to drive the 7 hours to Rio Dulce, then drive the 7 hours back to Lake Atitlan, it's no wonder he wanted some company!

After about only 10 minutes into the ride up the mountain, Reina and I were having an awful time! Both of us were getting extremely car sick as the van quickly turned left and right (over, and over, and over again) on a bumpy, narrow road! I have never felt so sick in a car in my life! I just kept my face buried in the hood of my sweater, closed my eyes, and prayed for it to be over, afraid the if i even made the slightest move, I would loose my breakfast. Meanwhile Reina was sitting behind me, not doing so well herself. Luckily, at least one out of the three of us (Sara) was coherent enough to be able to actually enjoy the scenery and take a few gorgeous pictures for us of the amazing views of the lake as we were driving away. So at the very least we could enjoy it later when we didn't have our heads buried in plastic bags!
About 4 hours later, we stopped to have lunch. Luckily by then, Reina and I had recuperated from the horrific first part of the car ride, that we were able to eat! Then at about 3:00 we arrived at the main dock at Rio Dulce. The entire area was crowded with people because of Semana Santa, and we even saw another religious procession complete with speakers playing loud music and people carrying statues in a boat, then after the boat docked, the people climbed out, and continued on with the procession.

We ran into more trouble with transportation when we got to the dock. Because it was Good Friday (again), there weren't many lanchas (boats) going out, nor were there many people needing rides, which again meant we had to pay more than usual. Like Lake Atitlan, all the places along the river could only be reached by boat, there are no roads, so we had no choice but to pay the $16 each to get us to our hotel. Our first stop while on the lancha, was to fill up on gas.The trip to our hotel took about an hour. The views of the bright green jungles and surrounding areas along the river were breathtaking.The river was very large, the biggest I've ever ever seen. On our ride we passed by many other lanchas, larger speedboats and jet skis filled with with other vacationers, local people paddling in "cayucos," which are small and narrow carved wooden boats (the picture below), mangroves, and little huts and small homes.

The large river then branched off into smaller rivers, and that's where we arrived at our hotel. It was called the Finca Tatin and it was a quaint, small lodge nestled right into the tropical and lush green wildlife along the river. The picture below shows the hotel's small dock and entrance.There was a main large cabin in which the downstairs had the reception desk and was lined many hammocks, long benches, tables, and a small sitting area with couches and chairs for guests to lounge around in. They even had a ping pong table, and numerous board games and books for the guests to use. The entire top floor was the more affordable, dorm style part of the hotel, there were about 10 or so beds lined up each having its own mosquito net. This main building had an attached hut which served as the dining area. There were two beautiful and large wooden tables on either side of the dining room, which allowed for family style eating at every mean. Then also branching off from the main cabin, little paths lead to restrooms (the picture below), and other private little huts. The entire hotel had a wonderful relaxing feel.After checking in, one of the workers sat us down and showed us a list of different tours and activities we could do. He also showed us a little notebook which the guests used to tally all their different expenses, such as meals, drinks, rentals, and tours, then they paid everything at the end. It was refreshing to see that this hotel ran on such a strong level of honesty, each guest responsible for marking down their own expenses. The we were taken to our adorable little private cabin/hut that was right along the river. We even had our own little dock with tables and chairs, and a hammock.Our hut had two beds, also with mosquito nets, and a small attached bathroom, with the tiniest shower I've ever seen (of course with only cold water).Because the hotel was situated right into the surrounding wildlife, there were many small and large insects and creatures scurrying about. We saw many small crabs that running around along the mud on the ground. Sara even caught one in our room stealing a cracker. Aside from crabs, we had many unwelcome visitors in out cabin, like scorpions and extremely large, scary spiders!! Sara spotted a scorpion hiding near one of our curtains. I called one of the workers to help us, and he gladly came and chased it out for us. Of course he thought it funny that we were scared by such a "small scorpion." Small or not by his standards, a scorpion's a scorpion, and I was completely freaked out nonetheless! After unpacking and getting settled, we headed to dinner. If you planned to eat dinner at the hotel, you had to sign your name on a board under vegetarian/ non-vegetarian by a certain time. The family style dinner was very nice, we had a chance to meet the other, very friendly guests while all sitting together at the large tables. Everyone had their own plates and served themselves from the large bowls and plates of food along the center of the table.

After dinner we headed back to our cabin to spend our first nervous night among the jungle and its many little inhabitants. I took about 10 minutes before laying down to go to sleep, to make sure that the mosquito net was tucked in under the mattress all along my bed. It took be a good while to finally fall asleep, as I was sure I'd be soon greeted by a spider, scorpion, or other scary creature!

SATURDAY, MARCH 22:

We slept in a little bit, ate breakfast, and decided to rent kayaks to go out on the lake. Sara and I had never been kayaking before so we rented a double kayak. Since Reina had been a few times, she got a single. Our plan was to kayak from our hotel to a town called Livingston, which we were told would only take about 2 hours. From Livingston, we would leave the kayaks there, explore the town, and then take a lancha back to the hotel, or so that was our plan.....

However, after about only 30 minutes out on the river, hilariously TRYING to kayak, we realized our high hopes of making it to Livingston were probably not going to pan out! It was really difficult to paddle in sync with each other and maneuver around. Most of the time I felt like I wasn't even paddling right, getting extremely exhausted, but not actually helping us get anywhere! We hadn't even made it to the large part of the river, and were only practicing in the small tributary along our hotel. There was no current, the water was very still, and we were pretty much out there on our own without having the interference of other boats. We quickly realized that if we were having this much trouble here, it might not be such a smart idea to try our luck out in the big open river, with a stronger current, and many large boats and jet skies speeding by. So after about an hour and a half of kayaking around that small tributary, we decided to just head back to our hotel, and accept our defeat!

For the rest of the day, we decided to relax, and give our sore arms a break. We went swimming in the river and laid in the hammocks. I actually fell asleep for over an hour in the hammock near our cabin. The house across the river It was the most peaceful nap ever, I'm definitely going to have to take a hammock back with me to the States!

SUNDAY, MARCH 23:

After we got dressed and ate breakfast we went on a hiking tour through the jungle behind our hotel, to a cave, and to a nearby village. The three of us hiked for about 10 minutes by ourselves, following red flags tied on trees, until we crossed the river, where we met our guides. From there we started on our hike which took about an hour. We hiked through the jungle, passing through a large cornfield, then arriving at the small village. It was so incredibly hot and humid, i felt like I was literally baking. While going through the jungle, there was at least some shade under the trees, but through the large cornfield, there was absolutely no way of escaping the intense heat! And of course, I had lost my sunglasses right before we arrived in Rio Dulce!
While walking thought the cornfield, we passed a small hut with dried corn lined up all along one wall. There was a women there grinding the corn, who we later saw on our way back from the village, carrying a large sack of the cornmeal on top of her head like it was nothing. I was miserable with only a light backpack!
The small village we walked to had a very small school with only 2 classrooms in the main building. One classroom for grades 2 and 3, and the other for grades 4 and 5. There was a nearby hut where the kindergarten and 1st grade classes were held.
The village had less than 10-15 homes, and there were many animals like horses chickens, and pigs running around. The picture below shows a new church which they were in the process of building.After we saw the school, our guides took us to see their houses, and a few others in there village. All the homes were one room huts, all with dirt floors, a small stove, and hammocks hanging from the beams across the ceilings. We saw one home that actually had a TV. I was surprised at first but then I remembered that it's just like everywhere in Honduras, even if the house doesn't have running water, they always have a TV.
Everyone was very friendly, inviting us into their homes and allowing us to take pictures. We saw women cooking on the large wooden stoves and making tortillas.
In the other homes we saw women and children making artisan crafts. The little girl below is making bowls using the shell of a fruit called a calabash and dried leaves to decorate the outside of the bowl. The women below is weaving a purse using a loom. They were selling all the hand made crafts, and I was able to buy a seed carved into a turtle for my cousin :) and a necklace with a pendant carved from coconut.
After visiting the homes, we headed back towards where our hike began. We stopped by a cave called "La Cueva del Tigre" to explore and go swimming. First we had to climb down a large handmade ladder, then we had to carefully make our way down into the dark cave. The rocks were a little slippery, but it was definitely worth it! I took the picture below while we were inside the cave looking up towards the mouth of the cave. It was so beautiful! I felt like we were in the movie Goonies!One of the guides ran ahead of us on our way back from the village to prepare the cave for us before we arrived. He lit candles and placed them throughout the cave to help light the way (which made it even more gorgeous and romantic), and he placed a ladder along a waterfall leading down into a large, dark pool of water. To get to the water you either had to jump off one of the large rocks perched over water, or climb down the slippery ladder while the waterfall was gushing down on you. I opted for the easier, much more fun and exciting (though a little scary) way, and jumped off the rocks. This again was something I could never see myself doing before I came to Honduras, but after visiting quite a few waterfalls, and slowly taking my fear of heights head on, I was able to jump of the rocks into the sea of darkness below!! I couldn't tell if I like it better or worse being able to see exactly how far up you are and where you're jumping into, but it was so much fun I did it 3 times!I must admit it was scary swimming in dark water, not knowing what was beneath you, but at the same time it was so thrilling to be able to swim in a cave (my first time ever) and jump off rocks, so it outweighed that fear! We climbed down deeper into the cave with one of our guides, but only came across more slippery rocks, and smaller pools, so we decided to head back to swim the larger pool. The water was chilly, but definitely refreshing after that long, smoldering hike! The only way back up to the rocks above was to climb up the slippery rope ladder, it was extremely difficult with the powerful waterfall gushing down on you body, and smashing right into my face so hard I couldn't see a thing! One guide had to stay below and hold the ladder from the pool below, while the other pulled you up as you reached the top.After our cave adventure we walked back to the river, were we stopped to rest at a restaurant. The heat had finally caught up with me and I felt really dizzy and dehydrated all of a sudden, so it was perfect timing for a pit stop. We stopped to look at a little artisan shop, then decided to take a lancha back to our hotel. Which sadly, was only a 10-15 minute hike uphill, but after all the hiking we had already done, and with the heat, we opted to take the lancha.

After we got back to the hotel, we rested for a little bit, then decided to head into Livingston on a lancha. As soon as we saw exactly how far Livingston was from our hotel, we quickly agreed how lucky we were that we decided to turn back around and return to our hotel in the kayaks yesterday! The town was really far, and I'm sure I wouldn't have been able to even make it halfway there.

Livingston is a very small Carribean town located right at the mouth of the Rio Dulce and Carribean Sea. The town had one small main street filled with restaurants,hotels. souveneir shops, street venders, and tourists. We followed the main street down to the end where it ended at the beach. There were many tents, chairs, and banners being taken down form the crazy Semana Santa parties and celebrations that had just finished the night before. We ate at a small restaurant along the beach called "Tilingo Lingo" which randomly served Indian, Mexican, Italian, Guatemalan, and Chinese food! We met the owner of the restaurant, who was interesting to say the least, she was Mexican, but lived in India for some time, and swore by here curry dishes. So we decided to try them out, and we were very pleased!

After dinner we walked around the town a bit, and had a few drinks at a nearby hotel. We had to wait until 8:30, when we had arranged for a private lancha to come pick us up and take us back to Finca Tatin, our hotel. Since it was so late, no public lanchas were running. We enjoyed a private boat ride back to our hotel, and relished in the cool breeze and most amazing views of the stars above. It was so dark, the man driving the boat only had a small flashlight to flash every so often so that oncoming boats could see us coming, but besides that faint light, everything around us was pitch black. The only sound we could hear was the motor of the boat, and the sounds of birds and other wildlife along the river. It was a perfect way to end our last night on the river!

When we returned to our cabin we were greeted by giant spiders! Once again we had to seek the help of someone working at the hotel. Carlos, the funny owner from Argentina, gladly came and took care of the first one we saw, and of course had to comment on how he thought it was only a "baby spider".... yeah right!! Only a few moments later we ran into another spider, but were too embarrassed to call them yet again, to take care of another insect in our room. So we took turns standing watch, and staring at the spider and other bugs to make sure they wouldn't move, while one by one we took showers. The shower, like I mentioned before was TINY, and the cold water drizzled down slowly from a small pipe, it was the most uncomfortable shower I've ever been in, not only becasue of the size or water, but also because of the added fear that large insects and bugs were going to come right in and join me in the shower!

MONDAY, MARCh 24:

We had to wake up bright and early at 7:30 am to eat breakfast and pack up and start our long journey back home to Tela. Sara and I were starting school again on Tuesday, so sadly, or Guatemalan adventure was coming to an end!

We had to take a lancha back to Livingston. Where we took another boat to Puerto Barrios, about 30 minutes away. Just when we arrived in Puerto Barrios it began to pour rain, so we opted to take a taxi all the way to the border, about 1 hour away.

At the border we had to stop and get our passports checked, then got back in the taxi to the first town past the Honduran border called Corinto. We stopped in Corinto for a bit to grab a quick snack from one of the roadside restaurants, then got on a bus to Puerto Cortes, about another hour and a hlf away. If we could have taken a direct bus from Puerto Cortes to Tela, we would have saved so much time and traveling, but no main roads went that route, so we had to make a huge loop and go about another 4 hours out of the way!
From Puerto Cortes we had to take a shuttle to San Pedro Sula, about 2 hours, then finally get on a bus to take us to back to Tela, another 2 hours. WE FINALLY arrived back home at around 5:30 pm.

Overall, I had an extraordinary experience in Guatemala! It was nice traveling with Sara's sister Reina, and I felt like we got to see many different parts of Guatemala. We had a chance to see a lot of the culture, especailly in Antigua, and a lot of the nature and wildlife through Lake Atitlan and Rio Dulce. And we did it all without trying to pack in too much into a short time, or trying to race from place to place. It felt like spending about about 3 days in each area was a perfect amount of time. I told Sara that she should consider being a travel agent, since she pretty much planned our entire trip for us, and everything ran so smoothly! :)

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

Semana Santa- Part Two (Our trip to Lake Atitlan)

TUESDAY, MARCH 18:
We ate our last meal in Antigua, a delicious breakfast of scrambled eggs, with fried plantains, beans, cheese, bread, and freshly squeezed orange juice at a little restaurant across the street from our hotel, and then we were off to the second part of our trip, Lake Atitlan. Lake Atitlan was formed by the collapse of land following a volcanic eruption 84,000 years ago, which is known as Los Chocoyos eruption (named after a bird which is often found in that area). The lake is surrounded by three volcanoes: Volcan Atitlan, Volcan San Pedro, and Volcan Toliman.

After breakfast we headed to the public bus station, where we were happy to see all the brightly painted buses complete with matching roof racks, mirrors, and bumpers. As if the buses in Honduras weren't crazy enough because of all the people they pack in, Sara actually saw a man climb through the window (WHILE THE BUS WAS MOVING and swerving through the narrow, winding roads!). He then proceeded to crawl up to the roof, where he threw bags and luggage down to the passengers getting off the bus.We had to transfer a few buses in order to get to Panajachel, called "Pana", which is the main city near the Lake Atitlan. The first bus we got on took us to a city called Chimaltenango, or "Chimal," that took about twenty minutes. Then we had to get on another bus to Solola, which took another 2 hours. While in Solola, we passed a huge outdoor market filled with many men and women dressed in traditional Mayan clothing selling various things. That was the first time I had seen men dressed in these clothes, and of course many women were there carrying those gigantic baskets filled with fruits, vegetables, and other goods, that I told you about before.
From Solola, we got on another bus to Pana, which took another 15 mintutes. And from Pana we walked to the main dock, where we jumped on a public boat called a "lancha" to take us to Jaibalito, the little town that our hotel, La Casa del Mundo, was located. That took another 30 minutes. The lake was beautiful, it was really interesting to see all the houses and hotels that lined the lake. All of them had little private docks because the only way to get there is by boat, there are no main roads leading to these places. The picture below shows our hotel.As soon as I saw our hotel I fell in love with it! The hotel is built into the hillside, with numerous paths that branch out and lead to gardens and various patios/ platforms complete with hammocks, picnic tables, benches, and beach chairs where you could sit back and enjoy the amazing views overlooking the lake and the surrounding volcanoes. It was seriously the most idyllic and gorgeous hotel I've ever stayed at! All the pictures in the world could never do it justice!Each and every room in the hotel was unique. They were all thoughtfully decorated with colorful, locally made pieces like rugs, paintings, various crafts and carved furniture, all of which added so much character and charm to entire hotel and restaurant. You could really tell that a lot of time and effort was put into trying to make this hotel special and welcoming to all its guests! All the rooms also had large glass windows in order to make the most of the expansive views.
The two pictures below show the rooms we stayed in (we had to move rooms after our first night). All the rooms at the hotel each had a private balcony looking out over the lake. From any place you stood in the entire property, you had a breathtaking view. The only downside to the hotel was that, because it is built into the hillside, you have to climb a ridiculous amount of stairs to get to your room, depending on where it is. But if you ask me, it's a small price to pay in order to stay in this little paradise for a few days!
Sara took the amazing picture below from the hotel restaurant. They served the most delicious food here! I seriously did not have one meal where I wasn't completely satisfied! Breakfast and lunch were served regular, but for dinner, there was a set 3 course menu (though you could specify special diets like vegetarian,vegan, and even lactose intolerant). Dinner was served family style, which meant they connected all the tables into one large, long, L-shaped table, and all the guests sat together among the candlelight, talking, and enjoying the wonderful food. As if the lake and scenery wasn't enough to get me to come back here, the food only made me that much more positive! Amazingly, our room only cost us $25 each per night! All that I kept thinking, was that I couldn't believe I could afford to stay in a hotel this nice!! I'm positive that any hotel like this in the States would cost well over $500 a night (even though I doubt that I could even come close to finding another hotel as beautiful as this one).
After checking in and enjoying our first scrumptious meal a the hotel, we headed back to our room to pass out for the night. All the traveling for the day had finally caught up with us!

WEDNESDAY, MARCH 19:

After devouring our yummy breakfast at the hotel, we put on our bathing suits on and decided to take advantage of the many porches and decks, and spend the day out on the lake. Like I said before, there where many beautiful places to sit back and enjoy the gorgeous scenery.
I only jumped in the water once, it was pretty chilly, and I think it freaked me out a little bit that I had no idea how deep the water was beneath me. You could jump off the decks straight into the water, or climb down a wooden ladder (the picture below), but I've grown much too used to the beaches, that jumping straight into cold, dark blue water was a little scary. Nonetheless, when I finally did make it in, it was pretty refreshing! Thanks to Sara, you can click on this link to see a video she took of the lake: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0m7eJoBd6k
After staying out by the lake for a few hours, reading and swimming, the wind had picked up a bit, so the waves were getting a little stronger. We decided to go to Pana to check out the town and to try to see if we could arrange for transportation to Rio Dulce (our next, and final stop in Guatemala) for Friday.
After taking another lancha from our hotel to Pana, we got on a "tuk-tuk," a small 3-wheeled scooter to take us to a nearby nature reserve called "Reserva Natural Atitlan." The picture above shows Sara and Reina sitting outside the entrance to the park, and the picture below shows our little tuk-tuk. Once there, we paid 40Q (about $6) as an entrance fee and started on a small hike along a trail that went through the park.
After only a few minutes of walking we came up to a group of coatis, and a few spider monkeys! Click here to see a short video of the curious little animals:
A cousin of the raccoon, coatis can be found in the warmer parts of Central America, Mexico, and some areas in the southern United States. They have long snouts and tails that usually point upwards. When we first spotted them they were close, but behind a fence. Then before we knew it, they had found a hole in the fence and were coming straight towards us! Definitely not like any of the zoos I've been to in the States! It took me a second to realize how close they were getting, and when they were right near our feet I started to panic a little bit but it was too late to run away from them because I was afraid they would chase after us. So instead, we stood there frozen, praying they wouldn't bite us. Sara took a video of the little creatures checking us out and begging for some of the chips we were eating:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hrqLsWxR3U
Just moments after, we spotted more spider monkeys crawling around. One of them even put on a show for us, swinging back and forth between trees from his tail and arms, as shown from the picture below. Click on his link to see a video of the spider monkey: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHvHUb3Hy7A
After our close up visit with the spider monkeys and coatis, we continued on the hike, where we walked through the beautiful jungle and crossed a few hanging bridges, and small waterfalls. It was all very lush and green, filled with many colorful flowers, plants and trees, and all the while we could hear running water from the streams and waterfalls in the background. It was very peaceful and relaxing. After the exploring the nature reserve, we took another tuk-tuk into the town. We searched around for a shuttle or bus to take us to Rio Dulce but unfortunately, we weren't having much luck. Apparently it's extremely difficult to travel anywhere on Good Friday because many people have the day off, including all the public buses. So our only option was to pay a lot of money to take a private shuttle. After visiting about 4 or 5 different travel agents on the main street in Pana, we ended up nowhere because many of the places were closing for the day. So we decided to head back to our hotel, cross our fingers, and just try back again tomorrow.
So we took another lancha and headed back to our hotel, where we had another delicious dinner, then climbed the endless amount of stairs to our new room (we had to switch rooms after our first night because someone had made reservations before us). This room was just as gorgeous as the one before, but unfortunately it was located a lot higher up on the mountain, which meant we had a chance to burn off our dinner before passing out on our beds for the night!

THURSDAY, MARCH 20:
On Thursday, we woke up to even clearer and more beautiful views of the lake. After breakfast, we decided to head back into "Pana" to have another go at our luck with booking transportation to Rio Dulce. As soon as we got off the lancha, we spotted a travel agency right on the dock that we hadn't checked the day before because it had already been closed. They arranged for a private shuttle to take us to Rio Dulce at 7:30 in the morning the next day. It cost a whopping $65 dollars each!! But we had no other option, so we paid the money! I guess at least it was going to be a direct ride there, and we did get to have an entire van all to ourselves to lay out and stretch our legs!
After making our reservations, we headed back into the town to find an ATM and buy some snacks for tomorrow's long trip. The main street in Pana was littered with many restaurants, souvenir shops, travel agencies, and countless jewelry/clothing stalls lined up along the street.
Before getting on another lancha to get back to our hotel, we stopped by to take a break at a little restaurant near the main dock. We ordered some snacks and a few local beers that were served to us like you see below. Even the beers are more colorful in Guatemala!
We were thinking of hiking to one of the nearby lake villages near our hotel to end our afternoon. However, after talking to some guests, and realizing how tired we were, and that all the hikes would be uphill, we opted to be lazy and lounge around the restaurant and hotel instead. We took some time to relax, read, check our emails, and enjoy some liquados (fruit shakes) before dinner.

FRIDAY, MARCH 21:
We woke up bright and early at 6:00am, to pack up our things, and head down to the dock, where we had to take a lancha into Pana and meet our shuttle. When we finally arrived at the hotel dock, we realized that we had another problem. Not only to the public buses and many businesses stay closed on Good Friday, but the public lanchas also don't run either! Luckily the hotel had their own boat, so we were still able to get a ride into town. The picture below shows our last boat ride on Lake Atitlan. The sun was shining so bright and the sky was so clear, it was hard to leave this amazing place behind! But we were excited to see Rio Dulce, and explore another part of Guatemala! Check in soon to see the last blog about our trip to Guatemala....